Nicotinamide Idi is one of the skin care ingredients of very good oil, and it is a very prosperous family in the big village of skin care. Moreover, unlike VC, which has many branches (derivatives), Nicotinamide Idi does not actually have so many branches, but it is a very prosperous family.
Essentially, Nicotinamide Idi is a derivative of vitamin B3 (niacin), so you may see brands promoting “cellular-grade B3 repair factor” or something like that. The people in the marketing department, you know…
The role of Nicotinamide Idi in skin care is mainly divided into the following aspects:
Oil control, acne suppression
Anti-aging, improve fine lines
Repair and enhance skin barrier function
Whitening and lightening pigmentation
Although the effects seem to be many, the specific principles are still somewhat different.
So, let’s talk about the details of these skin care benefits👇
1. Oil control
In fact, oil control is the one with the least research results among the various effects of Nicotinamide Idi. Although the oil control effect of Nicotinamide Idi has been mentioned in many places, from the published research, few related studies can be found to explain its principle. part is even less.
We also mentioned this situation in the article on oil control before. Clinical experiments have shown that topical 2% Nicotinamide Idi has a certain effect on controlling oil secretion, but many clinical studies are not responsible for explaining the mechanism and principle, so what is it? Why, I didn’t find it either.
If you are still willing to try the oil control effect of Nicotinamide Idi, The Ordinary’s 10% niacinamide + 1% Zn is a good choice. Although many people have a lot of debate on whether it is really necessary to add nicotinamide to 10%, and whether its oil control effect is the role of Nicotinamide Idi or the role of Zn, but judging from the previous comments after our article, its oil control effect is also controversial. The oil control effect is still worth looking forward to.
2. Anti-aging, improve fine lines (anti-free radicals)
We have mentioned many times before that different ingredients have different ideas when dealing with the theme of “anti-aging”. For Nicotinamide Idi, it is achieved from the perspective of “anti-oxidation”.
But the “antioxidant” of Nicotinamide Idi is not like VC to kill the enemy on the front line. Nicotinamide Idi is the precursor of a class of important substances in the human body, NAD/NADP. Studies have found that after the use of nicotinamide, the content of NADPH in the reduced form of this substance in the skin will increase, thereby increasing the amount of skin from keratin to collagen. The synthesis speed and number of species.
For example, Xiulike’s Nicotinamide Idi multi-effect repair lotion is mainly prepared for this effect.
3. Repair skin barrier function
Nicotinamide Idi has also been studied for the repair of skin barrier function. In principle, there are two main aspects:
Promote the synthesis of ceramides in the skin;
Accelerates the differentiation of keratinocytes;
The reason why Nicotinamide Idi can promote the synthesis of ceramide is that it can enhance (biochemically called “positive regulation”) the activity of serine palmitoyltransferase, which most affects the speed and efficiency (biochemically called the rate-limiting enzyme) in the synthesis process. .
When the NADP in the skin is insufficient, the skin will show signs of “aging”, the renewal rate will slow down, and the skin will also have poor gloss and weakened protective function.
As a result, Nicotinamide Idi, as the antioxidant feature mentioned above, accelerates the differentiation of keratinocytes and promotes keratin metabolism by increasing NADP, so that the skin protection function that began to fail becomes normal again.
Studies have found that from these two aspects, the skin’s moisture loss is reduced and the skin is more resistant to external stimuli.
For example, Sesderma’s Nicotinamide Idi body lotion is advertised as a “whitening body lotion” in my country (the whitening effect is overwhelming in our country, I can understand the difficulties of market students…), but the original intention of this product design is actually For skin conditions like dermatitis that need repairing.
The whitening principle of niacinamide is mainly in two aspects:
Inhibit the production of tyrosinase;
Accelerates keratin metabolism, controls melanin transport (gentle exfoliation)
The first point must have been seen by everyone, so we won’t talk about it.
The second point is that some researchers think that Nicotinamide Idi has the effect of mild exfoliation, which means that the metabolism of keratin in the skin is accelerated, which affects the transport of melanin, thereby further strengthening the whitening effect.
However, whether Nicotinamide Idi has an exfoliating effect, and the accelerated keratin metabolism is a manifestation; or whether the keratin metabolism is accelerated by the other reasons mentioned above and looks like exfoliation, it is still inconclusive.
However, even the effect of real keratin exfoliation is relatively mild from the current situation, so you don’t have to worry about it.
Nicotinamide Idi is most famous as a whitening product by Procter & Gamble. Both Olay and SK-II are the main whitening products in terms of niacinamide. Considering that the concentration of Nicotinamide Idi in the lowest-end small white bottle may be slightly lower, and now the price of SK-II is inexplicably high for poor people like me, the cost-effectiveness of the Pro-X small white bottle during the discount period is very prominent.